Acne Basics
A Basic Acne Routine That Doesn't Strip Your Skin
Most acne routines fail because they attack oil instead of the actual causes. A simpler sequence, and why each step is there.
Acne routines fail for a predictable reason: they treat oil as the enemy. Stripping cleansers, alcohol toners, and constant washing produce a barrier that is compromised and skin that compensates by producing more oil.
The routine that works is boring and gentler than expected.
What actually causes acne
Four factors, well established:
- Increased sebum production
- Abnormal keratinisation — dead cells block the follicle
- C. acnes bacterial colonisation
- Inflammation
A routine has to address at least one of these without making the others worse.
The four steps
1. Gentle cleanser, twice daily. Low pH, no scrubbing. The goal is removing oil and product, not stripping the skin. A foaming cleanser that leaves skin tight is too harsh.
2. One active, chosen for your acne type.
| Acne type | First choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Inflammatory (red, tender) | Benzoyl peroxide 2.5–5% | Antibacterial, well evidenced |
| Comedonal (blackheads, closed comedones) | Salicylic acid 2% | Oil-soluble, penetrates pores |
| Mixed, or persistent | Adapalene 0.1% (retinoid) | Normalises keratinisation |
Benzoyl peroxide at 2.5% performs close to 10% with less irritation. Higher percentages are not better.
3. Light moisturiser. Non-comedogenic, fragrance-free. Skipping this is the most common mistake — water loss drives more oil production.
4. Sunscreen. Some actives increase photosensitivity, and post-inflammatory pigmentation is worsened by UV.
What to leave out
- Alcohol-based toners
- Physical scrubs on active acne
- Multiple acids at once
- “Oil-free” products that are mostly silicone and alcohol
- Daily sheet masks
The timeline
- Weeks 1–4: possible purging with retinoids. Do not judge yet.
- Weeks 4–8: inflammatory lesions start reducing with benzoyl peroxide.
- Weeks 8–12: comedonal acne responds to retinoids.
Switching products every two weeks guarantees you never learn what works.
When to see a dermatologist
Nodular or cystic acne, scarring, acne that has not responded to twelve weeks of a basic routine, or significant psychological impact. Prescription options — oral antibiotics, hormonal treatment, isotretinoin — exist for a reason and are not a last resort to be ashamed of.
Bottom line
Gentle cleanser, one well-chosen active, moisturiser, sunscreen. Twelve weeks before judging. Do less than you think you should.
Links on this page go to retailer search results — check the active ingredient percentage, not the marketing name.
Tested Glow may earn a commission from links on this page. This is general guidance, not medical advice; persistent acne should be assessed by a dermatologist.
Frequently asked
Do I need to stop moisturising if I have acne?
No. Skipping moisturiser increases water loss, which triggers more oil production and worsens irritation. Use a light, non-comedogenic moisturiser.
How long before a routine works?
Eight to twelve weeks for a retinoid; faster for benzoyl peroxide on inflammatory acne. Judging at two weeks is the most common reason people switch too often.
Should I use benzoyl peroxide and a retinoid together?
Yes, but not at the same time of day. Benzoyl peroxide in the morning, retinoid at night. Layering them together deactivates the retinoid and increases irritation.